To venison or not to venison, that is the question.

Why don't we eat more deer in Ireland?

There is a distinct lack of venison on our menus in Ireland, which is an awful shame given the wildness of this creature in our illustrious pastures. Venison, or deer (the name the go by in the fields and hills), are manifold in most parts of Ireland and have to be culled to control the population. So why don't we eat them? Farmers bemoan their appearance in their fields, people bemoan the culling of them in the Phoenix park, but no one seems to want to eat them. Is it a question of cuteness?

Venison is one of the most sustainable meats in Ireland. Not only does it live wild but it consistently produces a new population so rapidly that it needs to be controlled. Our game supplier, Eamon Giblin, delivers venison to the restaurant each week, alongside many other birds, from mallard to pheasant. What is remarkable about these creatures is the length of time (deep time in my opinion) that we have been eating them. It runs to thousands of years. Two years ago, I went shooting with Eamon (my first time ever) and we nabbed a young one for the restaurant.

It's never easy watching something die, but I always believe that each thing we have to eat, from an onion to an oyster, gives its life to us so we can survive. Serving something in the restaurant that you shoot is a fundamentally holistic act.

We now have venison on our menu year round as Eamon has a special licence. It's important for us at Aniar to keep it on the menu as it's being culled, so not to use it is a crime against the animal kingdom. Why cull something and simply discard it?

We love to pair venison with beetroot, as it's nearly always in season in Ireland, but it also pairs well with many vegetables, from Jerusalem artichokes to aubergines (which grow well in Ireland), as well as mushrooms, especially maitake mushrooms from Garryhinch in Co. Offaly.

Seaweed is another excellent compliment for all types of deer, from sika to red and fallow. Whether it's pickled dillisk to cut through the richness of the loin, or milled sea truffle to help spice the haunch before braising, it all adds the extra umami kick that's needs for Irish food.

Given the time of year, it's essential that you carry venison on your menu, whether as a starter or a main. Perhaps winter is the time to give beef a break and showcase something a little wilder, a little more indigenous on your menu.

You never know, your customers might love it.

Jp.